Making a Pipe Recorder

An Easy-to-Make Slice of Musical History

© Douglas Howard

Sep 23, 2009
Playing a homemade pipe recorder, Doug Howard
A pipe recorder can be made from commonly available materials and tools. With some patience and persistence, a fine quality instrument can be made and enjoyed.

The pipe recorder is a member of the flute family found the world over. Today, it is often used as an instrument for teaching music fundamentals. Its whistling tone was used often in music dating from medieval through late renaissance times.

Materials for the Pipe Recorder

The body can be made from any stiff, hollow material. Traditional materials include cane or wood put plastic tubing and garden hose can also be used. For the flute discussed here, the tube should be about 12" long with an inside diameter of approximately ¾". To form the partly sealed mouthpiece, a piece of cork or wooden dowel the same diameter as the inside of the tube works well.

A sharp knife, file or saw will be necessary to shape the notched sound hole, or “flue.” A file or saw should be used for bamboo or cane. Other tools include:

  • 3/16" to ¼" drill bit and drill
  • Sandpaper
  • Small round file
  • Small saw
  • Vise
  • Pitch pipe (optional)

Assembling the Pipe Recorder

One advantage of the block or "fipple" at the mouthpiece end is that the entire instrument need not be cast away if a mistake is made. Another cork or dowel can be carved in its place. Likewise, there are methods to correct the pitch of a hole that may have slightly misplaced.

  1. Secure the tube or pipe in a vise to keep it from rolling. If using bamboo or cane, clear out the growth joints carefully with a drill.
  2. Measure 1 inch from the end and cut the “flue” hole. This should be a made a vertical depth of ¼". Measure a point from 3/8" to ½" from the point where the incision was made. Mark this and draw a line to connect the bottom of the vertical cut. This will be the angle to be cut for the flue.
  3. Ensure that the dowel or cork fits the tube securely and sand or cut down one side flat, beginning at a point slightly over half of its diameter at one end and ending at a point on the other end with about 90 percent left . It is easiest to secure the sandpaper flat on a table and work the cork or dowel to the correct shape.
  4. Place the plug into the mouthpiece end so that the slanted surface angles towards the flue. Ensure that it ends right at the flue opening. The air should push through the channel and split over the sharp end. A soft blow might produce a clear note on the first try. If it does not, move the plug backward or forward in the tube. If it blows hard, try sanding off the slant a small amount at a time. If it is easy to blow but produces no note, try sanding the slant to a steeper angle. It is possible to sand off too much material. Should that happen, begin again with another plug.

Piper Recorder Hole Placement

Many cultures have created their own tonal systems. Feel free to experiment with placement.

  1. If a tuned scale is desired, tune the pipe close to a “C” by cutting off a little at a time from the end opposite the mouthpiece.
  2. Draw a straight line the length of the pipe from the center of the flue hole to the open end.
  3. With the 1/4 inch drill bit, drill the first hole approximately 1 ½" to 2" from the end opposite the mouthpiece.
  4. Tune the hole to “D.” If it is sharp, file a bit off the bottom. If it is flat, file a bit from the top part. Should the hole become too enlarge or flat, place a bit of tape over part of the hole to correct it.
  5. Drill and tune each hole one at a time, centering the holes along the top. Starting from the end opposite the mouthpiece, mark a hole whose center is two inches in. From that point, measure 1 1/8" toward the mouthpiece end to be the center point for the next hole. In the same fashion, the center of the next hole should be 7/8" from the previous. The center of the following hole should be 1 3/8" from the next whole, and the center points of the last two should holes each be 1" from each other.
  6. In order to sound a full octave, a hole should be drilled at exactly the opposite side of the tube from the hole closest to the flue.

Suggestions for Playing the Pipe Recorder

Begin by completely covering all holes and blowing softly. Lift one finger at a time until all holes are open. Experiment with breath and finger control to produce a variety of tones.

Excellent resources for learning to play the pipe recorder tuned to a major scale include “The Penny Whistle Book” by Robin Williamson and “The LMI Recorder Method” by Joe Riposo.


The copyright of the article Making a Pipe Recorder in Flute is owned by Douglas Howard. Permission to republish Making a Pipe Recorder in print or online must be granted by the author in writing.


Playing a homemade pipe recorder, Doug Howard
Cork and cane -- building blocks for a recorder, Doug Howard
     


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